Homeowner Testing

The following information briefly describes analyses which are relevant to home owners serviced by a public water supply or a private well. A price list is also included for the analyses mentioned. If you have any questions or would like a more detailed explanation of the services we can provide please call us.

Public Water Supplies

If you are on a municipal water supply you can receive certain information about the chemistry of your water from your provider. Problems with high concentrations of metals can be found which are independent of the source of your water. Certain types of piping and solder can leach contaminants into your system. Of particular concern is lead, which even at low levels can be dangerous. Also, some people are known to have sensitivities to such things as chlorine and fluoride, which are present in varying amounts in a public water supply.

Please refer to the description of chemistry tests below for guidelines on what information you may which to learn form your municipal water supplier. We are happy to answer any questions you may have about what this information means.

Private Wells

Private water supply owners are not required to test their wells by any agency of State Government. Consequently, the quality of the water in a private well is almost always unknown. The Vermont Department of Health recommends several water quality tests, especially in rural areas where on-site septic systems operate near water supplies.

Most banks and mortgage institutions require a potable water test to protect their interests at closing. At present, this is only a total coliform bacteria test. This test is used to indicate the possible presence of pathogenic bacteria in the water, but says nothing further about the chemistry of the water.

Following are answers to frequently asked questions about bacterial contamination of drinking water:

Q: My water is contaminated. Why hasn’t it made me sick?
A: Coliform or other bacteria will not necessarily make you ill. However, since these organisms have been able to enter your water system other disease-causing organisms (bacteria, viruses, and protozoa) could enter as well. To prevent illness, we advise that you boil your water for five minutes before drinking.

Q: Can water tests pinpoint the exact source of contamination?
A: No. Water test show that coliform bacteria have entered your water system, either at the source or between the source and the faucet. The tests don’t identify the source.

Q: What should I do if my drinking water is contaminated?
A: Boil for five minutes all water used for drinking; making ice, juice or baby formula; and for washing fruits and vegetables. Look at the location and construction of your water source and try to identify and eliminate the source of contamination.

Location: Wells and springs should be isolated, preferably uphill from septic systems and other potential contamination sources, such as barnyards and pastures.

Construction: Dug wells and springs should be made of concrete and have tight-fitting, lipped covers and sealed joints. Drilled wells should have casings that extend 18 inches above ground, surrounded by mounded clay to prevent surface water from entering.

Q: I disinfected my well and had the water tested, but my water is still contaminated. What should I do now?
A: You may need to hire an environmental engineer or hydrogeologist to find the problem. Lists of water system consultants and water treatment options are available from the Department of Health or the Yellow Pages.

Chemistry Tests

In addition to the coliform test, the Vermont Department of Health recommends a set of tests referred to as a "Kit C". This list includes nitrate, chloride, arsenic, copper, iron, manganese, lead and sodium. Analyzing for nitrate and lead is a must for households with pregnant women or small children. Sodium content can affect people with hypertension and high blood pressure. The remaining constituents may be the cause of nuisance problems, such as buildup of scale, staining and odor or taste problems.

Evaluating the quality of your water before you consider buying a water treatment system for your home gives a very good idea of what you may or may not need for treatment equipment before talking to a salesman from a water treatment company.

Special Problems

The tests described above are only for common chemical constituents of water. If you suspect contamination form industrial pollution or hazardous waste, you may wish to test for heavy metals and volatile organic compounds. Reasons to suspect a problem include:

· Recent application of pesticides or herbicides in the area, or ongoing agricultural land use nearby.
· A dump site, landfill, industrial park, or gas station in your area.

How to disinfect your water system

Use chlorine bleach solution to disinfect your water supply after construction or repair work (including replacing the pump), or when a water test shows contamination.

Before you begin, disconnect or remove any water treatment devices, such as activated carbon filters water softeners or reverse osmosis units. For a dug or drilled well, add one gallon of household bleach for every 525 gallons of water. This means using one gallon for every 10 feet of dug well. Whenever possible, run chlorinated water through a garden hose back into the well for an hour so the chlorinated water washed down the inside of the casing. Scrub the sides of dug well or spring with a clean brush and bleach solution. After you recap the well, open one faucet at a time throughout the house. Run the water until you smell a strong chlorine odor, then turn off the tap. After 12 hours, connect a hose to a outside faucet and drain the chlorinated water to a safe, outdoor location. Do not drain water onto a lawn, garden or back into the septic system. Continue flushing until the chlorine odor is gone. Re-sample the water for bacteria two or three days after the chlorine odor has disappeared.